New York State of mind.

Thursday 11th August  Flying high

04.19am, tea and biscuits in bed, listening to the radio..they’re playing NEW YORK STATE OF MIND!!!incredible! I’ve been awake since 02.45, so excited. Jill picked me up at 9 o’clock and we were well on our way when she got a phone call to say that her house  alarm on had gone off so we had to turn back to find out what we could do about it. Apparently the gate hadn’t shut properly and set the alarm off,  it delayed us for about an hour but we got to Bari airport in good time. We had about an hour and a half to kill before our flight to Milan so we had a look round the shopping area. We were very amused to see T-shirts with the name Ross on it, some of you may know that I have a new friend, Ronn Moss the singer, actor, well-known personality, who has just bought a house near to me in Puglia. Jill was so amused that it had his name on the T-shirt and tried to persuade me to buy him one but translating what it said on the T-shirt was not appropriate and I wouldn’t insult Ronn by buying it or buying Devin his wife the bag. It means ‘overdecorated, or extreme’ but Ronn and Devon are certainly not that. They are the nicest more genuine people  have met. So, no T-shirt or bag. But we did have a good laugh about it, actually is not Ronns company at all but just something with the same name, it’s just one of those funny little things that happen when you’re  travelling and something will catch your eye and make the holiday experience memorable. The flight was good bit on arrival in Milan it was confusing about where to get our shuttle us  to ‘the First Hotel’ a place very near to the airport as our flight to New York is at 10am tomorrow. Unfortunately we couldn’t check in online so we have to be at the airport at 5 am when the desk for Delta airways will open. On arrival at the hotel we were approached by a guy who was having trouble organising his flight to New York, he was on a different airline to us. As Jill flies regularly to New York she kindly helped him to organise his flight and in response of his gratitude he asked if he could take us to dinner. There was a very nice restaurant called La Quercia, which was next to the hotel and we have just come back from a lovelymeal with, for me, a couple of glasses of very nice Salento rosé wine. I had told myself I must not have anything to drink tonight because I have a long flight, nine hours, tomorrow and I will be up at 5 am, but Hayhoe, it’s done. The guy we met was called Patrick and he was very generous, ordering us all a lovely fish meal with mussels seabass, salmon, swordfish, and salad. So we have enjoyed a very pleasant evening, albeit far too late to bed, and also far too late for me to write much more. So, you people in my pocket, this is just the first stage of the adventure and already we have made connections and hopefully made a difference to someone’s life, and they have made a difference to ours. Which is what life is all about. Meeting people, interacting and making memories. Good night

Friday 12th August. Up up and away!! 

Up at 04.30am as we have to go to the airport at 5 am to see if we can check in as we couldn’t check-in online, so there seems to be some sort of a problem. I do hope we’re going get there okay. While I’m sat at the airport waiting for the check-in to open 6 o’clock. Jill is on the telephone to the airline but there seems to be no response, she’s just in the queue and has been on the phone over half an hour. I’m beginning to get a bit stressed because I like have my boarding pass in my hand and this is just not happening. It’s 05.45 we still can’t get through to the gate,Jill’s  been on the phone an hour and we have been asking questions about why we have to check in at the airport and couldn’t check in online but now it’s been confirmed by someone on the phone that we are booked onto the flight and they just need to see all our documents. It’s probably because of me because I’m English with an English passport and I’ve also got a Visa to enter America so they probably need to physically see that. Beautiful sunrise over Milan Malpensa airport

08.00. At last the check in is open and we’ve just got our boarding cards. When I was at the counter I was going to try a trick to getting into first class. ‘No way’ you say! But you know me, I don’t give in easily. It all started out as a game between me and Jill, but soon became a challenge to see if I could do it. I had a chat with a girl who gave us the boarding passes, a very nice young girl very approachable, nice smile. I had my Mary Poppins hat on so I tried to charm her and said I was writing a blog about my trip to New York. I asked her if it was possible to go inside the first-class cabin to take a photo to show everyone the luxury that was inside Delta airlines. (What I wanted was a seat in first class). As she was looking to see what could be done I asked her if she had seen the Ronn Moss concert last week in Milan. She immediately knew Ronns name and said she had seen him in the American show, Bold and Beautiful which he played the part of Ridge for many years. I told her he was my friend and she went ‘oh wow!’ Wanting to promote him I told her about his new film ‘Viaggio a Sopressa’, she was excited and before long she was helping me to get a seat in first class and  told me to go and speak to one of the Delta staff. There I met Fiorella and Anna, two of the Delta crew, who, when they knew Ronn Moss was my friend, immediately were willing to help me.

Fiorella told me she’d meet me at the boarding gate, and sure enough, she was there, calling me forward to be the first person through. I sort of felt like a film star myself!  I was reluctant to leave Jill but she reassured me it was a good opportunity as she had flown first class before.  Once on the plane I was taken to the first class cabin. Wow! What luxury! I also went into the cockpit to meet the captain!  I took a few pictures to share with you, that was special so I stayed awhile and had a chat, almost had a cup of coffee ha ha! Sadly the first class area was full, I wish I was sitting in there now but never mind, me and and Jill have nice seats, tv screen, music, films, luxury for me after a lifetime of Ryanair! I’m quite happy just to be going to New York. So Pocket People, we are on our way, 9 hours and New York here we come. I’ve bought a full flight Wi-fi so I’m doing the blog as it happens, just incase I don’t get the opportunity to write when I get to Manhattan this evening.

22.45. Uk time, 23.45 Italian time.16.45 New York time…sorry everyone. I’ve only just got settled into Jill’s studio in Manhattan. It’s really sweet and is in the centre of Little Italy so feel really at home here…long way to come for a pizza!! Now I have Wi-fi I can post my blog. The 9 hr flight was ok, time passed quickly, no problem. I decided instead of taking a taxi from the airport I’d like to experience the subway so I could get to know how to find my way around, firstly with Jill’s support. Now it’s only early evening and I’m pretty tired bit determined to stay awake a few more hours, so am now taking Jill and her husband Tommaso out for a… yes…a pizza!

Saturday 13th August. Time warp

(Written at 01.30). I’m not really sure what time, (or day) it is… my phone says 01.30 (I changed it to US time when I arrived in New York. My iPad which I didn’t change, says 07.30, my body says have some breakfast. So I have just had yogurt and Granola. Weird!  Eating pizza last night (early morning?) was confusing. I reckon I’ll just finish this short blog and try to go back to sleep. Because I won’t be having the same routine for the next few days I’m going to write a bit through the day to avoid a late night blog when I’ll probably be worn out. …later… got a few hours sleep until US time 7am. 

It’s now 16.45 and I’ve had A GREAT DAY! I think I’ve walked many miles but worth every creaking step, I wanted to stay above ground as much as possible and experience the street life and meet people. It took me a while before I could even get out of the Little Italy area as, despite following google maps route I went round in squares (not circles) as the layout of New York is in cross cross streets. I walked through China town and on the edge of Soho, both  an experience to see the different cultures in the area before I needed to stop for a rest. I found a hour a lovely little place called Charley Street and had a unusual tasty meal called a ‘Breckie Sandwich’.. folded eggs, halloumi, aioli, avocado, angula all in a fabulous home made sour bread roll. The young waitress, Esme, was so lovely, and when I told her I wanted to visit a Speakeasy …(for anyone who is not familiar with the word, a Speakeasy is a place where alcoholic beverages are illegally sold, mostly referring to the time between 1920 and 1933 in the USA when alcohol not allowed. Prohibition was brought in to reduce crime caused by alcohol and the financial burden of keeping offenders in prison. She told me where I could find some speakeasys, but that will be for another day I think.

I continued my walk and came across an old fashioned pub so went inside, not for a drink, too early, but just to look. There was already some old guys drinking, 11am, they told me of some pubs I might find interesting. Some of you may not know why I’m so interested in bars and pubs. I’ll explain… my husband Chris introduced me to real ale several years ago and I wrote a short book about real ale with humourous verse. Chris sadly died last year, which is why I’m writing travel blogs now, and my interest in pub cultures and pub history continues, although I don’t frequent them much nowadays. So the Speakeasy and old pubs will be for another day. I eventually got to the subway I wanted and found my way to my next street. Once out of the Subway I walked, fascinated by the vibrancy of the city, the huge tall buildings rising like needles into the clouds, making me feel so small, like an ant in a corn field. Such a contrast to my Paradiso in the Italian countryside where the tallest tree is my conifers.

Feeling tired I stopped for a drink of water, but unable to find a shop, went into a bar. There were a few guys sat drinking beer and I asked if could buy a glass of water, which I was given at no cost. I got chatting, as I do, to the guys and ending up having an interesting hour getting to know about them and their life in New York and places to visit. This is what I love about travelling. The people, their history, many who have origins in all parts of the world, their stories, the diversities of life, all in one huge melting pot called New York.

Refreshed I moved on, up through the bright lights of Broadway, to the food markets where smells of Caribbean, Indian, Chinese, so many, drifted into the warm air. I loved it. People selling beads and bangles, multi coloured scarfs, bright clothes of Mexico, woven rugs from Peru. All of these in two great streets.

Fascinating. I was running out of time and had many blocks to go to get to Columbus Circle subway where I was meeting Jill and Tomasso. I have never walked so far! I was pretty exhausted when I arrived so we took a taxi to Central Park where there was a live jazz concert. Crowds of people were heading up to the Hill, many carrying collapsible chairs and picnic baskets. Soon the area surrounding the stage was full of people, again the diversity fascinated me, all interacting perfectly. It was so good to see this and made me feel happy to be part of a great peaceful gathering. The free concert was brilliant, and electrifying, I particularly enjoyed watching as people of all races and colours danced together to the sound of the music.

What a lovely day I have had, with the added bonus of sitting on fresh grass in  the shade of beautiful mature trees that gave off a distinctive perfume I have noticed around the city where there are only a few trees. I must try to find out what it is. The day ended with a lovely meal at a Cuban restaurant, a first for me.

Completing a day of awareness that it can be possible for all people of all colour, creed and country to be in one place and be in harmony. What ever bad things we hear on the news there are many good things happening, which seem to be ignored.

It is now 22.57, it takes me some time to complete this blog, and now I will catch up of much needed sleep, another adventure awaits tomorrow. 

Who knows what day it is? Not me..

Walking my legs off

I left the studio in Little Italy this morning at 9 am, my intention being to get the Staten ferry that goes around the Statue of Liberty. It’s now 12.30 and I’ve been walking 3 1/2 hours! I have never walked so far as I have done the last few days but I’m sure it’s doing me good and maybe I’ll lose a bit of weight. I have discovered that when I’m using google maps I keep changing the little man icon from walking the route to walking to public transport, which is why I’m going around in circles. I only found this out today when I met a couple of Argentinian girls. I asked for directions and they told me I’d been using he app wrong! Ok, I’m a daft old woman! I have so much to learn about technology, but this is why I am pushing myself on my travels…I have to learn about these things to be independent.

I stopped a few times just to get a little rest but, my goodness this city is big. What didn’t help me is Google Maps trying to show me which road to take left or right. It took me right through Chinatown which was actually really interesting. I found a shop selling all the ingredients that I would’ve loved to have bought to cook some interesting meals, and also some unusual medicines, teas, roots etc. which again I would’ve liked to have known what ailments they would treat. I ended up buying a small pack of chewable ginseng root  which the old Chinese man told me would bring me instant energy. I’m tempted to try it right now to recover from this long walk but I’m afraid it might make me so hyped then I might just explode! I also bought small pack of tea, just half an ounce that is special for lowering blood pressure and cholesterol, but if it seems to work it will be a long journey back to get some more.

I stopped further on in Chinatown for a coffee and the speciality of the region, which is a chocolate cigar, such a huge sweet snack filled with chocolate and walnuts so I could only eat half and I’ve taken half away. Another long long walk but I am at last down at the dock  where the boats are moored ready to take tourists and residents across to Staten Island, I am hoping to get the next ferry which will just do the round trip to see the Statue of Liberty in a couple of hours. 

Monday 15th august. History

I’ve just spent a. Hour on my blog write up and somehow pressed the wrong button and deleted it all. It’s no where to be found and I’m devastated. So I’m just going to try to recap, but all the thoughts I had may not be as detailed.

Today I didn’t want to walk far so took a subway to south Manhattan to visit the National Museum of the American Indian. I’ve always had an interest in them and have strong feelings about the way they were treated when the Dutch and British arrived at their shores.they were living peacefully, trading in goods and not currency, yet they were eventually persuaded and tempted  by the Dutch to sell their beloved land which is now called Manhattan for what would have been the equivalent of $24 of beads and trinkets. I am sure they did not understand what they were doing and it changed not only their future but the future of millions of people.

The museum holds many historical records, photos and artefacts, also interactive displays that tell of their lives before and after they lost their lands. I took many photos, some which are here to share with you. There are many items of clothing that was made, intricate beading and stitching using all natural resources and are truly beautiful to see.

I had quite a tiring walk wishing to see all of the displays and needed refreshment and rest. I had heard of a nearbyf pub called The White Horse Tavern. It first opened in 1880 and has an impressive wood panelled interior, A. beautiful smell of mature oak greets you when you open the door and a massive oak bar stretches the whole length of the room.

It was apparently a gathering place for writers and poets and is famous for being the last place Poet and write Dylan Thomas had his last drink. I went in early lunchtime and there were a couple of nomen at the bar and we were soon having a good conversation about the pubs history. I had a pint of beer and was amazed that it was only $5 a pint! On my first day in Manhattan I refused to pay over $7for a bottle of water. It seems in Manhattan it is cheaper to drink beer than water!

Making my way by Subway back to the studio there were several armed police with dogs, it felt a little threatening as if something was about to happen. However, one of the police saw me trying to follow my mobile phone google route and came to ask if I needed any help. He was very kind and told me google maps does not work well in Manhattan and advised me to use the regular iphone maps.that explains why I have be lost and misdirected so many times! Well it’s late now, I’m going to try to relax and then to bed. Being a Pocket Traveller I’m sure you are not as exhausted as me! Good night…or good morning as you will probably get this tomorrow. 

Wednesday 17th August. Reunion

I planned meeting up with Caitlin and Skyler and their 2 year old son Bodie today. Caitlin and Skyler came to the trullo in Italy in 2015 as ‘Workaways’. For those who not aware of the word, it is an organisation where travellers can stay with a host for free in exchange for 4-5 hours work a day. Me and Chris totally loved this young couple and we spent a wonderful week together, working together on the land of the trullo. They live in Philadelphia and as it was so close we arranged to meet. Now, after 7 years I have met them again and it seems like only yesterday, my only regret is Chris is not here but I’m sure his Sprit was walking beside us.

I had a very difficult journey travelling down to the meeting place which was downtown Manhattan. I got the subway but unfortunately got on the wrong one, the stupid google maps  sent me the wrong way again so I found myself travelling for over 20 minutes wondering why I could not see the station I was looking for. The train came out of the tunnel and crossed the river and that was when I was really concerned and realised I was on the wrong train, in fact I went to a totally different state and ended up somewhere called Sunset Park which is out of Manhattan completely. I got off at the next station and a really nice man helped me by entering some details into my phone but I had to make a return journey to almost where I came from which was  45 minutes away.

When I did eventually arrive at the right station I had another long walk and again got totally lost. I came across another nice young man whose name was Jaden and asked for directions, he was so kind said he would take me to where I needed to be as he had nothing else to do that day. Some people may say that I am naive and stupid to talk to strangers in such a big city but I know when people are good, it’s just a sense I have. Jaden was a very polite young man, he lives in the Bronx area and has a hard life. I am very grateful of this opportunity in New York to meet so many people of different backgrounds, I am learning so much about Manhattan just by mingling with the local people. I gave him a little tip for his kindness and am certain he will not spend it on drugs or alcohol.

We walked several blocks and eventually came to Ground Zero. This was something I wanted to avoid. I know it is an attraction for some people but for me I just didn’t want to feel the pain and suffering, the shock, fear, the monstrosity of the whole historical event. I found myself passing the memorial where are huge water feature now covers where one of the towers was and I tried hard to close myself off from the horror, instead, sending as much love as I could muster to those who had died in such an horrific act of evil. Maybe it was meant to be that I passed that way by accident. So I share these photos with you and hope you too will send your love to those souls who suffered. 

I waited by the bay, a beautiful area, and the Statue of Liberty still stood tall in the distance. Soon I saw the familiar faces of Caitlin Skyler and little Bodi in his pushchair. It was just like yesterday that I saw them and we greeted as close family. I’ve had a wonderful afternoon with them, talking about the past, Chris‘s illness, the changes in all our lives, and it was all completed by the presence of their lovely little son Bodi. We found a nice old pub, had a pint in memory of Chris and the famous ‘pub times’ we shared in Italy. I hope it will not be another 15 years before we meet up again, who knows when Bodi grows up he will come to Italy and be my Workaway, but  I do hope that he will come with his parents much sooner. Another wonderful day in New York.

So now I’m back at the studio. I called in at the fishmarket in Chinatown I have bought myself some nice fresh shark steaks and I like to prepare my evening meal. Sometimes it’s just too much to go out to restaurants every night, I’m not that sort of person, I like my Mondays at Gli Ulivi but I also like a night in just relaxing. To be honest it takes me that long to write my blog that I don’t  have the time to go out for a meal! Okay, only joking. I love to share my travels with my pocket people and I do hope that you enjoy travelling with me to. So hopefully I won’t lose this write up tonight, and I can post it now along with a the photos of the day

Wednesday 17th August. Going underground

‘Meteorites are not just in the sky; get down in the subway of a city and you will find people who do not know what they are doing, scattering around in space just like meteorites’. –  Mehmet Murat ildan. 

That’s me. A meteorite twisting, turning, a confused packet of energy. Then suddenly I stand still, like in a trance. Thinking ‘where the heck am I? Gazing up at information signs, looking for something that means nothing.  I’m in everyone’s way, they push past me. A deranged man stumbles across my path, shouting loudly, eyes wild with the effect of drugs or alcohol. His dirty ragged blanket falls to the floor and with each staggering step he leaves a trail behind him. An old torn rucksack, a worn out shoe, a paper bag containing a bottle smashes to the floor. I fear he will disappear into the chasm of the track as he sways from side to side and I would be witness to carnage. I am concerned about him. Where will he be this night without his meagre belongings? Will he sleep on the pathway and never wake up. I am a little afraid, of his life or his death. This is something new for me and my mind just wants to be out of the subway, up into the brightness and freshness of the street.

I look around for someone, anyone, and say ‘Excuse me. Can you tell me…’ .they ignore me. I’m just a little old lady in a sun hat. Then someone stops. I am relieved and grateful for the sound of a friendly voice above the roar of a subway train screeching to a halt. I hold my mobile phone tightly in my hand, pointing to the screen that shows a grid of streets and dots and lines and… then he speaks softly, ‘where do you need to be?’ He smiles and I feel safe. The deranged man is out of sight and I recover and smile back trying to look confident. The nice man helps me to the right train, gives me clear instructions and I thank him. He disappears into the grim platform and I am so thankful as my train screeches as it moves at great speed to my destination. I see a notice on the train about cannabis. Maybe that is why all the other travellers are so calm, Maybe I should try it.

I spent a couple of hours in Chelsea market, ok but not worth the trauma of the journey, just more shops. I headed for Little Island, an impressive man made pier park, but was too tired to climb the steep pathways, so just took a photo and made my way to the subway. I looked for a yellow cab, a bus, but after a 30 wait decide I would go on foot. My phone map said 10 minutes walk and I would be back at the studio. It lied. 25 minutes later I arrived.

And so another day of exploration and adventure has ended, leaving me with a longing for my peaceful Paradiso, the olive groves, cherry trees and quietness of the countryside. I have loved New York with its many different faces, but today I was so tired, my legs no longer holding up, not even to catch a bus or train. So I came back to the studio early and rested, falling asleep, exhausted. I realise I have tried to cram so much into my days and now I will slow down and take it easy. Tomorrow is my birthday, i want to plan a happy day so I will take taxi to a park where I can sit on fresh grass or by a pond and watch the birds. Tomorrow night I am going to Dizzys jazz club with Jill and Tomasso so I need to be rested for a late night out. 

Thursday 18th August. The city that never sleeps.

I can’t sleep in New York. I have no idea what day it is…ah yes…it’s my birthday! Because of the 6 hour time difference (or actually 7 hours for my UK friends and family) I was woken up by messages wishing me a Happy Birthday. Lovely that they thought of me! … at 2am, 3am, and in the end I didn’t bother trying to sleep. Why didn’t I put my phone on silent? I thought I did. But never mind. I miss my Chris even more on occasions like this, so I appreciated friends and family remembering me, so sleep was not important. Yesterday I saw a pretty little ring at the Chelsea market. My hands are quite arthritic and are now too swollen to wear my wedding ring. I’ve worn it around my neck with Chris’s ring and chain but I missed the feel of a ring on my wedding finger which had been there for so many years. This little ring is perfect as it opens up at the top to change the size, so it will expend as my finger swells. It’s just the right colours too and I pretend Chris bought it for my birthday present.  

Today’s adventure was to visit Strawberry fields, so I took a subway train to meet Jill, who had offered to take me for a birthday lunch, so I risked another trip on the dreaded subway. I NEVER have an easy journey and although I got on the right train I didn’t get off on the right stop and ended up 30 minutes Uptown, far away from ace a two and a half acre area of Central Park . Eventually I arrived at Strawberry Fields which is dedicated to the memory of John Lennon. He had an apartment opposite the park and was shot outside in the street in December1980. His wife Yoko Ono funded some improvements to the park and it is now a beautiful wooded area with a shrubs trees and plants sent from all over the world. It certainly is a most beautiful place to be, very peaceful and I wished my legs were not so tired as I would have loved to have spent more time there. There is a black and white marble mosaic circle with the word ‘Imagine’ in the centre, the title of one of John Lennons most famous songs.

After a lovely lunch Jill  thought it best that she came with me back to the studio, however even Jill, a New Yorker, was confused where we should get off as apparently some of the train lines are having repairs done and they are not running to schedule. So in the end I got a taxi! Now after writing my blog I am getting ready to go on my birthday night out to Dizzys jazz club to see Willie Jones 111 Sextet. Watch out for the update, probably tomorrow morning as it doesn’t start until 21.30. A late late night for me!!

The morning after.

I had a great time at Dizzys Jazz club last night! I got there early as the best tables would be first come first served. Once again I pushed myself forward…I always told my children that if you want something no one will come knocking at your door, you have to get out there and look for it yourself. And so I wanted the best table and went for it. I arrived at the club early (taxi) and with a big smile, past by the pretty security girl. I chatted with her and managed to secure first place in the queue when the club opened.  Going up to the club on the 5th floor I soon made friends with Darren and Skyy at the reception desk and talked my way into reserving the best table in front of the band, then had to go back to wait downstairs until the show began. We were first in the queue, and when we got to the entrance desk Darren and Skyy shouted out ‘Hey Rosie! How you doing,..,and continued to welcome me like I was an old friend. It was so funny, people behind us in the queue must have thought I was someone special as we were taken to the table! The club has a fantastic view of the city, our table was perfectly placed. The whole evening was amazing, cheese and meat platter, snacks and cocktails and great music. I had such a lovely time, unforgettable. 

Jill and Tomasso came back with me in the taxi, I’d had a couple of strong cocktails and they wanted to be sure I got back to the studio. What a lovely birthday I’ve had. Thanks for all your good wishes. I hope you enjoy the short music clips. I realise not everyone likes jazz, but in the atmosphere of a good jazz club it’s hard not to enjoy the music. 

Friday  19th August. Winding down

It’s been a whirlwind since I arrived in New York, I haven’t got a clue what day it is. My iPad, where I write up the days events, is still set to Italian time, so I’ve been using that date for my blog, now I realise I was probably a day ahead! I just put it was the 20th today..panic..I fly back the 21st! But here in New York it’s 19th 19.30 in the evening. 

After last nights jazz club I’ve had a quiet day. A nice 20 minute stroll to visit one of the oldest pubs in New York, McSorleys. On my way I walked along a rough looking street and  saw a graffiti painted doorway. A young girl dressed in gym gear sat on a bench outside, and I noticed it was a boxing club. She smiled and I stopped to talk to her. Laura told me she was a boxing trainer and helped people to get involved in boxing to help them get out of drugs and alcohol. I asked if I could go inside and she took me into the dark entrance, a cavern with blackened walls and low iron beams. It smelt of leather and sweat. I could hear the thuds echoing around me of hard hits into a punchball and in the dim room, the outline of men, wildly thrashing their fists back and forward as they fought their imaginary opponent, it played like a movie shadowed on the walls. She took me down a steep staircase to an even darker room, and on my request, showed me her skills, pummelling the huge punch ball that was larger that her small toned body. You may say what made me want to go into such a place? but as I have said before, I love to see and meet the people of New York. The real people away from the tourist areas. 

I walked on to McSorley’s Old Ale House, a famous old pub in 7th Street. It opened in 1854 and walking through the door, over a sawdust floor, I could feel the history emanating from every inch of the room. Newspaper cuttings, yellowed with age and sepia photos covered the walls, historic police badges and memorabilia, too many to mention, adorned every space. The owner, Theresa, a lovely young woman, welcomed me in and immediately made me feel at home. She offered me the special double beer of the pub, a glass of light ale and a glass of dark. I did wonder if I could handle two on a lunchtime but went for it anyway. I ordered the traditional Friday fish and chips! Richard, her cousin, was sat at a table and asked me to join him, and before long he was telling me the history of the pub and the long line of family members it had belonged too. We were soon joined by his son 21 year old Aiden, who, having Italian blood, was interested in coming to the trullo one day. Richard told me that in the days of prohibition the pub had a back room where politicians and lawyers would drink in secret, he said, with a twinkle in his eye, (truth or fiction), that the same happened during lockdown. I tend to think he was joking! There is so much history to this pub it’s not possible to tell you here on this blog, but there is a documentary that can be found on Amazon. I spent a couple of hours with these lovely people and was tempted to stay longer, but I had to stop drinking more beer, so I said goodbye to my new found friends and made my way back to the studio. 

Walking back, I saw a gentleman sat on a bench, he had a small tin of paints and was carefully painting what looked like a piece of wood. I stopped to watch him and sat beside him to rest my legs. His name was Felix Plaza, a Puertorican artist, and he was painting on tree fungus that looked like a shell. He has to painstakingly paint light layers of watercolours and let them soak into the the natural material. It was fascinating. We soon formed a good friendship and sat awhile discussing all sorts of philosophical subjects. He told me his apartment was close to the twin towers and on 11th September 2001, that horrific day in history, he was looking up at the sky, thinking what a beautiful blue it was, when a plane flew overhead. He saw the first plane crashing into the tower, followed by the second. His eyes filled up with tears as he recalled the crowds of people running past his home, blackened with soot and debris. How dreadful, the horror will never go away. I enjoyed his company and would have stayed longer, but I was tired and the sun was hot. Before I left Felix gave me one of his paintings, he would not take any money for it, he said it was a gift of our friendship. I will always remember him. I’ve had such a lovely day again and met some more amazing characters. 

One thing before I sign off… I was thirsty and called at a small shop for an iced tea. On the shelf I saw some small bottles that had CBD on the label. Yes, cannabis and CBD is legal here in New York and is sold on the streets and in the shops. I was curious, so I’ve bought a little bottle for $6. I don’t know much about this sort of stuff, I think I’m a bit nervous to try it but am sure it can’t be that strong. It may give me a lift after a tiring day

Saturday 20th August. Contrasts

This is my last full day in New York. It’s been an amazing experience in many ways, I have learnt so much about people, places and most of all, myself. Ever since I can remember I have had someone else to consider, it’s a new experience for me now to make my own decisions and just think about myself. I loved Chris completely and dedicated my life to him, but now I am without him I need to learn to be an individual, Ying without a Yang. This trip has taught me so much, how to relax about spending money, treating myself kindly, doing what I want, taking as much time as I need. After 10 days I have finally come to a point where I can accept this without feeling guilty, and hope I can carry this through to my future life.

I walked again today, not the tourist route but down back streets and dark alleyways, experiencing the rich and the poor of Manhattan. From the tall skyscrapers where the rich and famous sit in their luxury, to the graffiti walls of the poorest areas.  From shiny marble shop fronts, to litter scattered run down areas where homeless men lay comatose on the pavement or a park bench. I stopped and spoke to a young man, his skin blackened with dirt, fingernails filled with deep grime. I asked what had happened in his life to bring him to this dire situation, he told the usual story I am now used to hearing. His mother died, he has no family. He loved a girl and she didn’t want him. All the same replies. 

His name was Tom. Whether the story was true or false I listened for a while, then asked him if he considered turning his life around. We chatted a while, I can’t change these people, giving money is not the answer, whether they are acting or it’s real,  it’s no way to spend a day of ones life however grim things seem. I wish I could be of some help. I asked to take a photo and gave him a couple of dollars. Nothing to me but maybe a coffee for him. 

I walked on, avoiding getting to close to groups of men in ragged clothing, the stink of their bodies wafting towards me like a cloud around them. I’m certain they were all high on drugs as there were no bottles of alcohol anyway to be seen. Sad. I wasn’t afraid, just sad that a life can be so wasted.

I went into a nearby food market and entered a different world. The display of good food, lobster, caviar, fresh exotic fruits and vegetables filled every aisle. I bought a bagel for $5 and wondered if the homeless ever spent their begging money on food instead of drugs.

I decided I would move on from a situation where I could not change anything and found what I thought was another old pub, The Grey Lady. I was attracted by the doorway but when I entered inside it was not what I expected and nearly turned to go out but decided to have a drink. I got talking to the young man called Edwin behind the bar, who, when he heard my story of visiting old historic pubs in the area, gave me a free wheat beer to try. He was amazed that an older woman like me was interested in beer and we ended up having a good old chat. I like these encounters. Too many people write of anyone who is over 45, and I hope I have shown all the people I’ve met on this trip that, despite being older, life can still be exciting and adventurous.

I’ve included several photos of the ‘down and outs’ just to share with you the diversity of real life. I hope no one is offended, but this is how it is and shouldn’t be ignored.

So tomorrow evening me and Jill fly back to Milan then on to Bari, Home. Paradiso. Where life is beautiful, peaceful and comfortable. I will never forget this amazing adventure and I thank Jill and Tomasso for giving up their lovely little studio to me, it has been a pleasure to stay here independently. I love the lemon sorbet!

I hope all you Pocket People have enjoyed the trip. Thanks for being there with me. I realise I may have written too much each day, (it takes me quite a while to write it all up, but each day has been so full and I hoped to share every moment with you).  I would be interested how many people have followed my journey, not for egotistical reasons, but just to see if it is something you would like to follow if I travel again. Click ‘like’ on my Facebook page if you would like to encourage me to continue my travel blogs. Who knows where we will go next! 

Goodbye Manhattan!